As I had posted once before, I was going to use inserts when installing the joysticks instead of just using wood screws. This works extremely well when screws may be removed, and tightened several times. Without an insert, it’s possible that you’ll strip out the wood, leaving a hole that needs to be filled. Another reason is the thing wood that we have to work with on a control panel. Typically you’ll only have 3/4″ or less to insert a screw in the control panel. This doesn’t give much thread engagement with typical wood screws. With the insert you can tighten the screw as much as you like, within reason, without worry of stripping.
Besides arcade machines, I’m also a big fan of pinball machines. I grew up going to an arcade called JNC that had an entire wall of pinball machines; Black knight 2000, The Addams Family, Riverboat Gambler, Dr. Dude, Earthshaker, T2, Whirlwind, Elvira, and a few others that I can’t remember. Since the place is no longer around, well it is, but just in graveyard form, I needed to pick up a machine of my own.
I ended up purchasing a Whitewater machine and my father has a Whirlwind. I’m pretty much in charge of fixing both.
The tornado drop target on his Whirlwind machine stopped working, or I should say that it stopped working reliably. Sometimes it would register a hit, sometimes it would pop back up. You’d never know and that would disrupt the game.
I’ve been putting a lot of work into all three of the cabinets lately. This hasn’t left me any time to document the entire process, but I will be getting around to that. All of the pictures have been taken, but they still need to be organized and uploaded. My main goal is to get two of these done before christmas. That gives me two weeks to go from the current state to complete. As you can see in the following pictures, it’s getting pretty close.
On the software side, everything is up and running. I’ve managed to get Hyperspin working with MAME, NES, SNES, Genesis and Daphne. I’ll add more systems in the future, but so far this is a good start.
Now that I’ve got all of my parts and the cabinets are starting to go together, it’s time to start finalizing the wiring assemblies. I had previously posted a wiring diagram showing all of the connections to the relay and outlets allowing for one hot outlet and one controlled outlet. I’ll show how all of those connections are made.
For this assembly, I’m using the following parts:
- 2 standard outlets
- 14 gage stranded wire
- 1 relay
- 1 relay base
- 1 dual gang box
- 1 dual gang outlet box cover
- Power EMI Filter with Built-In Switch
Every year for thanksgiving, the food assignments get doled out and this year I’ve been tasked with making apple pies. Two dinners and two pies. Unfortunately the dinners are 13 days apart, but I’ll make both pies at the same time and freeze one, uncooked.
I’m planning on installing T-molding all around the sides of the cabinet and around the control panel. It’s a good idea to cut the slots for the t-molding now, before the cabinet is together. It makes things a lot easier, only dealing with a side instead of putting the cabinet down on its side for each cut.
I had requested samples from www.tmolding.com and sure enough a couple of days later they arrived. It’s good to see the colors in person. The color never translates well through a camera and monitor screen. Sure enough, orange that looked pink on the screen was indeed orange. The blue one in the back is a nice deep purple.
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I wanted to make so that my machine had a nice solid base on it. so I came up with the following design.
There are wheels mounted on the back and then leg levelers on the front. (See the bottom of the post for links to the parts mentioned in this post) The levelers have nylon bases, so they wont scratch hard floors and they should easily slide on carpet. Read the rest of this entry »